Grape varieties Australia

Chardonnay

by Toni Paterson Master of Wine

The popularity of Chardonnay quickly rose, due to its generous flavours and its ease to grow and make into wine. In fact, it is often called a viticulturalist's dream, as it is early ripening, naturally vigorous and is relatively resistant to disease. Most importantly, it can be grown in a wide range of climatic conditions, leading to a vast array of styles.

Chardonnay to a winemaker is like a blank canvas to an artist. The base flavour of Chardonnay is generous, but relatively neutral thus the winemakers' individuality can be expressed through the winemaking techniques used. Oak usage, yeast lees contact and malolactic fermentation are just some of the ways a winemaker can influence the style of Chardonnay.

The style of Australian Chardonnay is difficult to categorise. Grown in warm climates, such as the Riverland or Sunraysia, the flavours are opulent, ripe and uncomplicated and the structure is mouth filling and rounded. Flavours such as ripe peach, fig and melon are common in these wines. In cooler climates, such as the Yarra Valley and the Adelaide Hills, the structure is tighter and leaner, with flavours of lemon, grapefruit and green apple. Secondary characters of nuts, toast and vanilla come from oak contact where as butteriness comes from malolactic fermentation and creaminess from yeast lees contact.

Due to the highly oaked styles of the early nineties, many people boycotted Chardonnay, preferring instead the fresher, more delicate white wine varieties. However winemaking techniques are vastly different today, allowing for strong regional fruit expression and greater restraint and complexity. Cooler climate fruit is increasingly being used, introducing elegance and finesse.

Australian Chardonnay is experiencing a new and exciting phase. Our super premium wines stand proud alongside the great wines of Burgundy and California. The ageing potential of our wines is increasing, as it the overall quality and balance. Exports are ever increasing, which indicates that it is not only Australians, but also the world, that is drinking and enjoying Australian Chardonnay.

© Toni Paterson 2002