Shiraz
by Toni
Paterson Master of Wine
Shiraz is the most widely planted grape variety in Australia. It
currently represents 40% of the total red grape crush and constitutes
one fifth of all wine grape production in Australia. It is without
doubt Australia's favourite red variety, both domestically and internationally.
However Shiraz has not always enjoyed the popularity that it does
today. Until the mid-1900s, Shiraz was grown purely for fortified
wine production. Its ability to get very ripe, along with its inherent
rich flavours made is perfect for this wine style. When the red
table wine boom began in Australia, Shiraz was overlooked whilst
the refined and sophisticated Cabernet Sauvignon became the wine
of fashion.
Shiraz reached its lowest point when the South Australian government
implemented a vine pull scheme to replace old, low yielding Shiraz
vines with the more fashionable Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Thankfully, some growers resisted, giving us the iconic old block
Shiraz styles that Australia is now renowned for.
Shiraz underwent a renaissance when the international world began
to focus on Australia. Never before had Shiraz as opulent, as powerful
and as seductive been seen. Ripe fruit, a fleshy mid palate, soft
tannins and a kick of American oak became the template for Australian
Shiraz. And the regions of focus were the Barossa Valley, McLaren
Vale and the Hunter Valley.
The beauty of Shiraz is that it can flourish in a range of climates
and slowly cool climate Shiraz came into focus. The cooler regions
of Central Victoria, Coonawarra and Padthaway became known for structured
wines that had black cherry, pepper and spice characters rather
than the chocolate and stewed plums found in warmer climates.
Shiraz can be made into a range of styles, defined by the terroir
of the region and the winemakers' artistry. In an attempt to allow
for regional characters to be expressed, many winemakers are moving
away from 100% new American oak, preferring the use of older barrels
and/or French oak. The result is a plethora of new styles with finesse
and complexity.
Never before has Shiraz enjoyed such stardom. With its soft ripe
tannins, it can be crafted into wines suitable for immediate consumption.
However it real character is seen in wines with longevity that show
layers of intoxicating complexity with age. Shiraz deserves is status
as Australia's flagship grape variety. Find yourself a 10-year-old
Barossa Shiraz and you will easily see why.
© Toni Paterson 2002 |