2010 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling
Clare Valley, South Australia
Jeffrey Grosset is a winemaker who has received almost as many accolades as his Rieslings. Australia is producing some of the best Rieslings in the world in very distinctive regional styles but the grape is a still largely an unsung hero of the wine world here in Australia. Partly because it is about as misunderstood as a Gen Y is by a doting but perplexed Grandparent and partly because it is much overlooked by many in their search for the frivolous and flirty Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Therefore, as a varietal, Riesling still needs and deserves as many advocates as it can get and Grosset is certainly doing his best to make us converts.
Grosset focuses on just seven wines, three of which are Rieslings from the Clare Valley - the pure lime juice and floral 'Springvale' Riesling (from the Watervale sub-region), an off-dry Riesling also from Watervale and this more restrained Polish Hill offering.
This wine disproves the adage that beauty is skin deep with it's layers and complex nature. It has all the attributes of a great Riesling - refined floral aromatics with plenty of lime fruit and minerality, but I also feel that this vintage hints at some fuller riper note which adds yet another layer to this wine. With a classic Clare structure, it is dry with a medium body and a crisp yet slatey mineral finish which is long and taut in its youth. It is a wine that will certainly start to flesh out as it develops some age and wisdom.
While it is a lovely wine to sit and take your time with, it would also work incredibly well with food. A starter of delicate sashimi or scallops will work brilliantly with the lime-like acid cleansing the palate for that next morsel.
Drink now or cellar 10+ years.
Distribution: Cellar Door & selected wine shops
© Lisa Johnston Octoberr 2010
Wine Diva Wines of the Month, November 2010