2009 Sutton Grange Fairbank Viognier
Viognier is a tricky variety and a variety that makes me very happy when it is done well, and very grumpy when it isn't.
Viognier is all about perfumed aromatics - the heady aromas of a warm summer's day and glorious, sensual texture.
When ripe, it develops beautiful honeysuckle and apricot aromas and flavours, and the structure which, unusually has naturally low acid, high alcohol and lots of glycerols that make the good ones irrestiably luscious and slippery in the mouth, can go too far and become over extracted, hot and oily. When picked early to retain acidity, there is little fruit development.
This wine from Sutton Grange winery, just south of Bendigo, had found that knife-edge balance - ripe enough to glory in flavour and texture, without being overly oily or phenolic.
A delicious, textural white wine with citrus, peach and apricot, honey and some toasty complexity that will be a delightful match to a perfect free range roast chicken, with all the trimmings!
Drink it slowly and revel in the way it opens up and changes in the glass!
Wine Diva Wines of the Month, September 2011